Taiwan Travel Guide – Taroko Gorge

Taroko National Park (太魯閣國家公園; Tàilǔgé gúojiā gōngyuán) is home to Taroko Gorge (太魯閣), a deep, rocky, tree-lined canyon with a boulder-strewn, blue-green river at the bottom. It’s one of Taiwan’s major tourist attractions and is a good place for hiking or just sightseeing. It is composed mainly of metamorphic rocks, such as marble, gneiss, and schist. The name “Taroko” means “magnificent and splendid” in the language of Truku, the aboriginal tribe residing in the area.

The nearest town is Xincheng near the entrance to the national park, which has a train station and a handful of hotels, restaurants, shops, and even a night market serving the steady flow of tourists. The visitor center is near the entrance to the park, and Tianxiang, a village of sorts with not-that-great restaurants and a couple of stores, is located deep in the gorge past most of the main hiking trails. Alternatively, many visitors go to Taroko National Park as a day trip from Hualien. That’s what I did and what I recommend, as it is a nice city with some interesting things to see and do itself.

Getting There: Transportation Options

The nearest major city is Hualien. Flights and trains are available from Taipei and most major cities.

Bus

• Shuttle bus from Hualien (left when coming out of the Hualien TRA station, where also you can find the ticket office.), (08:00-20:00). The buses leave from Hualien at 07:00 (wheel chair access), 08:30, 09:10, 10:00, 11:10 (wheel chair access), 12:00, 13:20, 14:10 and 15:10 (wheel chair access) daily – it’s about 40 minutes to the Park HQ, 1 hr 15 min to Tianxiang, and the full loop about 2½ hours. Buses from Tianxiang to Hualien leave at 08:40 (wheel chair access), 10:00, 10:40, 11:40, 12:50 (wheel chair access), 14:10, 15:00, 15:50 and 17:00 (wheel chair access), and 30 min later from the Park HQ aka Taroko Visitor Center. The bus stops at Qixintan Beach, Xincheng Railway Station, Taroko Archway, Taroko National Park HQ & Visitor Center (太管處), Changchun Shrine, Yanzikou (Swallow Grotto, 燕子口), Jiuqudong (Tunnel of Nine Turns, 九曲洞), Lushui (合流.綠水), Tianxiang (天祥) and then back along the a similar, but not absolutely identical route. But it stops also where hailed. Make sure you are standing on the right side of the road and hail at the bus if you wish to get on. It goes quite slow, so you will not feel your stomach that much. On the way back, do not catch the bus at the Taroko Visitor Center at the entrance of the gorge, otherwise it might be full in the evening. However, during the week this will seldom happen. There are 1- and 2-day passes available, for NT$250 or NT$400 respectively (actually, you can pass on the ticket to the next traveler, because the ticket is only made invalid once at Hualien Station and after that no one checks the date. They just want to see it in your hands; also, since the ticket is valid from the day of the first use, the purchase date on the ticket does not mean anything.).
• Regular buses from Hualien. Regular buses depart from the Hualien TRA station at 06:30 (to Luoshao), 08:40 (to Lishan), 10:50 (to Tianxiang) and 13:50 (to Tianxiang). All buses stop at Tzuchi Vihara, Xincheng Taroko Station (太魯閣火車站), Taroko Visitor Center (park entrance), Shakadang (砂卡礑) and Buluowan (布落灣). Although the distance is not large, buses should take at least 2 hours to Tianxiang, due to very frequent stops and reduced speed inside the gorge. The buses no. 1126, 1133 and 1141 can also be used with the 1- and 2-day shuttle bus passes. Otherwise, the price is about NT$170, with no change given. So, be sure to bring the exact amount. EasyCard can also be used. 

The Visitor Center offers free maps of the area. They can also provide you with up-to-date information on which trails are closed, as the weather and earthquakes may make them unsafe.

Train

A journey by train from Taipei to Hualien takes 2 hr by express train (NT$440) and 3-4 hr by local trains. The closest train station to the park entrance is Xincheng Station (新城). From there, you can use the before mentioned shuttle or regular buses, or there is the choice of one way taxi rides for about NT$200 or a taxi day tour for about NT$2,000.

Taxi

A taxi from the Hualien train station to Tianxiang (town in Taroko National Park, where the Grand Formosa hotel is located) costs about NT$1200 and takes about 1 hour.

Scooter

Note: Read the information I provide on renting and using scooters in Taiwan on the Taiwan overview post.

You can rent a scooter near the train station in Hualien. You can also rent a scooter by the Xincheng train station, which is closer to the park. I rented one in Hualien and it was a good choice, especially as I had time to see everything in a day with time to spare so I after Taroko I drove up and down the coast near Hualien visiting some nice scenic spots along the way. If your itinerary permits it, staying in Hualien two or three days is recommended (see my Hualien post)

Rental price depends on which brand and size scooter you choose. I chose a basic 125cc scooter (GP125) and paid NT$300. The sales agents will tell you that most foreigners prefer a larger bike, which may be true, but I drive something similar in my daily life in Chiang Mai and it is fine for the purpose, even if carrying a passenger (unless you are both quite large/heavy).

It’s not a long ride from Hualien, taking only around 30 min to reach Taroko Gorge.

If you run low on fuel, the locals often stock a small supply that they’ll part with for a miraculously uninflated price. There is also a gas station 50 km past Taroko on the number 8 road (around km 118). The drive there climbs to an impressive 3 km altitude. Bring warmer clothes and rain gear (most rental agencies will provide a basic rain poncho as part of the rental). Also make sure to get a helmet with a rain visor.

Get Around

By bus

You can use the shuttle bus and regular buses mentioned above. There are also numerous bus tours visiting the gorge every weekend, which, while comfortable and air-conditioned, tend to have a tight itinerary (including, of course, the obligatory stop at some local gift shop), leaving little time for extended hiking. Tour buses leave from the Hualien visitor information center and cost about NT$988 per person for a whole day tour.

Regular bus lines are a convenient and inexpensive way to get around the gorge and avoid the need to look for parking, though they can be very crowded. You can use Taipei’s EasyCard to ride the buses with a discount—tap when you get on and when you get off. If you pay with cash no change is given.

Bus lines through the gorge include the 302, 1126, 1129, 1132, 1133, 1133A, and 1141. They run pretty frequently from early morning to early evening, but at inconsistent intervals, and different lines stop at different places, so get a schedule to plan your transportation. The buses are often late and sometimes even a few minutes early, so don’t take the schedules too seriously. Major stops served by most of the buses include:

• Hualien Station 花蓮火車站
• Xincheng Station 新城火車站
• Taroko Arch Gate 太魯閣
• Taroko Visitor Center 太魯閣遊客中心
• Shakadang 砂卡礑
• Swallow Grotto 燕子口
• Tunnel of Nine Turns 九曲洞
• Lushui 绿水
• Tianxiang 天祥

By car

Renting a car in Hualien is definitely an option, though be very cautious; the roads through the gorge are extremely narrow with numerous bends. In addition, there are pedestrians, scooters, cars and massive tour buses all vying for the tight space.

By scooter

If you’re comfortable riding a scooter experience, that’s my recommendation, assuming the weather cooperates.

By bicycle

For the truly adventurous, cycling is a wonderful way to traverse the park. You can rent a bike in front of the entrance of the Taroko national park. It costs NT$250 for a day.

On foot

If you do not have any of the above you can see some parts of the national park by foot. The closest hiking trail to the park entrance is the Shakadang Trail, which departs from the road after the first tunnel approximately 1 km from the park headquarters. The eternal spring shrine is only 1.4 km further through the tunnels. Taking this tour takes 4-5 hr, don’t forget to take enough water with you.

By thumb

Although Taiwan is not a hitchhiking paradise, it is pretty easy to hitchhike in the Taroko gorge and, more generally, on Highway 8, especially if you are a foreigner.

Fees and permits

Entry to the park is free but if you want to go to some of the wilderness or into areas designated as Eco-protection areas or restricted mountain areas, you will need an entry permit. Be sure to apply for the permits early (at least 1 week before) as some permits are limited to a small number per day. Refer to the official Taroko National Park information website for application procedures.

Things to See and Do in Taroko Gorge

The following sights will be encountered in a westward order from the entrance of the park, though starting early in the morning at Baiyang Waterfall trail and heading eastwards will lead to far less crowds.

• Shakadang Trail (砂卡噹步道) (buses stop at Shakadang going into the park but not going out, so to catch a bus out you’d need to walk along the road through the tunnel forward to Changchun Shrine or back to the visitor center). 4.1 km, 3-4 hr round trip. Shakadang Trail is also known as “Mysterious Valley Trail”, which is named because more than 40 years ago a group of young folks entered the river valley and found it very secretive. This place has attracted more and more travelers, and thus everyone is used to calling it “Mysterious Valley”. However, its name was reverted to “Shakadang Trail” in 2001, according to the name of the river. This trail is built along the river cliff so travelers can easily observe both the folded rocks and ecosystem beside the river shore. 4½ km after passing Sanjianwu (3D Cabin), the trail leads to an old Datong tribe village, which is a favorite of travelers. After the first curve, you can see running water from the cliff to the lake, a sight which has astonished many people. May is the season for You Tong flowers and makes the trail a pleasant floral walkway. The beginning of the trail is pretty flat and easy, and it gets less crowded after you pass the stands selling food and drinks.
• The Eternal Spring Shrine (Changchun Shrine / 長春祠) (drive from the west exit of the Changchun Shrine Tunnel of Central Cross-Island Highway, then turn south to Liwu River Valley). 2 km, 1-1.5 hr round trip. The shrine and its walkways are sometimes closed, due to (supposedly) Typhoons. It seems like you are supposed to stay on the road, take your pictures and leave. But it is nevertheless impressive. The Changchun Shrine (Eternal Spring Shrine) recognizes the personnel who died during the construction of Central Cross-Island Highway. Rivers adjacent to the Changchun Shrine become the scattering falls, and the Highway Bureau named it after “Chanchun Falls” which is now the significant landmark on Central Cross-Island Highway. In 1987 the cliffs of the rivers destroyed the pavilion nearby the Changchun Shrine, but it was restored and reopened to the public 10 years later. In the back of the Changchun Shrine, there are stairs leading to Kuanyin Caves, Taroko Tower, the Bell Tower, and through a hanging bridge called “Heaven Trail”, to Changuang Temple. The river valley next to the Changuang Temple has a calabash shape, and is accordingly named Calabash Valley (Hu-lu Gu). 
• Buluowan (布洛灣). 400 m, 20 min. 
• Xiaozhuilu Trail. 650 m, 20 min. 
• Swallow Grotto (Yanzikou Trail). 1.37 km, 20 min. The Swallow Grotto is a short easy walk along very nice views of the gorge, finishing under the impressive Zhuliu cliffs. Kiosk with restrooms available halfway. Closed as of December 2019.
• The Tunnel of Nine Turns (九曲洞). 
• Xiangde Temple.
• Lushui Trail (Suspension bridge & waterfall) (alight at either Lushui or Heliu bus stops). 2 km, 1 hr. Great and picturesque view. Further down the road in addition a great view from the 9 bridge. 
• Dekalun Trail. 1.3 km, 3 hr. Challenging trail with lots of birds.
• Huoran Pavilion Trail. 500 m, 2 hr.
• Cave of Water Curtains / Baiyang Trail (水簾洞) (entrance 1 km up the highway from Tianxiang bus stop; look for the big tunnel on the left). An easy 2.1-km trail, 2-hr round trip. Named for the cave at the end of the trail, where water literally pours down in sheets from the roof. Pack a poncho or use one discarded by other considerate hikers (or inconsiderate, depending on your point of view). Hiking to this point on the Baiyang Waterfall Trail takes you through many very long, completely unlit tunnels — an experience in and of itself. Be sure to take a torch/flashlight, or you’ll be walking in pitch black darkness. The first part of the trail is wheelchair-accessible.

Hiking

Taroko national park features a lot of different hiking trails. For most of them solid sneakers are enough, if you want to leave the well prepared paths you need to get permission of the park administration. Don’t forget to take enough water with you when hiking. Also, ask the information center about the weather. At certain times of the year there is predictable heavy rainfall about the same time everyday and you want to make sure you aren’t hiking at those times. Often rains start around 15:00, in which case you need to get an early start to do a couple of hikes in a day.

• Lushui-Heliu Trail. An easy 2-km, 45-min walk from the park office at Lushui to Heliu. Winds around short cliffs above the main road. Does pass through one dark tunnel, so bring a flashlight. 
• Dali Datong Trail (大禮大同步道). The trail starts near the Visitor Center and goes up through a forest, offering expansive views of the area and the Liwu river. The trail is of medium difficulty, consisting of mainly stairs and dirt paths. Once arrived at the top, you will hit some restricted areas. It takes 10.6 km and 2-3 hr one way and 6-7 hr round trip. Might require a permit. 
• Lushui-Wenshan Trail. 5.5 km, 5 hr. Might require a permit. 
• Zhuilu Old Trail (錐麓古道) (take the bus to Swallow Grotto 燕子口). A strenuous hike that used to be part of an old cross-mountain trail through Taroko Gorge, starting near Swallows Grotto as it winds upwards through the green forest and coming out on a narrow cliffside path 700 m above the road but not more than a meter or two across. Not for anyone with fear of heights, but offers stunning views of the mountains on the other side of the gorge. Fortunately there’s a cable to hold onto, but still, be careful and don’t bring small children. At the 3.1-km marker after the narrow cliff trail is a flat area that makes a good place for lunch or a snack. The trail ends there as further tracks have high risks of rockfall and landslides. There are lots of monkeys in the area around the trail, so look and listen for them snacking on leaves up in the trees. Hikers are limited to about 150 a day, so the trail is peaceful compared to the relative crowds below. Apply as early as you can as permits do run out, sometimes within minutes of becoming available at 07:00 one month in advance. The permit lets you start the hike between 07:00 and 10:00—try to make it early (before 08:00) to have the trail almost to yourself. Apply at https://npm.cpami.gov.tw/en/index.aspx; once you get the permit, print it out and bring it and your passport with you to check in at the trailhead. NT$200, NT$100 for students; paid on arrival.

Miscellaneous

Restaurants are in short supply in Taroko Gorge, and those at the service centers in Buluowan and Tianxiang are generally bad with inflated prices. The Visitor Center has a restaurant and a (relatively limited, compared to the average convenience store) choice of bottled drinks. The closest real convenience store is a 7-Eleven in Taroko Archway, about 10 minutes walking downhill from the Visitor Center; another 7-Eleven is in Tianxiang. A packed lunch may serve as the simplest option for a day trip to the Gorge. For breakfast and dinner, there are tasty options in the nearby town of Xincheng.

Final Thoughts

Taroko definitely belongs on your itinerary if you can spare the time. If time is pressed, do it as a one day trip, probably via tour, but if you have more flexibility, make a short stay in the nice little city of Hualien, rent a motorbike, and visit the gorge and coastal area near Hualien at your leisure.

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